Where Peonies Bloom and the Aroma of Tea Deepens
A 160-Year-Old Traditional House in Jangwi-dong, Seoul
Hidden along the winding alleys of Jangwi-dong, Seoul, lies a 160-year-old traditional house that has preserved the charm of the old times. Even those born and raised in Seoul may not know about this historic home. Originally covering 2,000 pyeong (about 6,600 square meters) with a pavilion, a lake, and an arched bridge over the lake, it was once a grand royal residence. Today, only a third of it remains, with the main house, the men’s quarters, a detached building, and part of the garden still intact. Despite its reduced size, it stands out as one of the few traditional houses in Seoul that has not undergone major renovations, maintaining the original form of a Hanok from the modern era. This 160-year-old house, a place reminiscent of old Seoul, now hosts Deokon Tea House, run by tea expert Kim On.
What is Deokon Tea House?
It is a space that holds the history and culture of the Joseon Dynasty. Originally, it was a royal residence and shrine dedicated to Princess Deokon (1822-1844), the last princess of Joseon. In 1977, it was designated as a Seoul Folk Cultural Heritage, and since the owner at that time was Kim Jin-heung, it was named “Kim Jin-heung’s House in Jangwi-dong.”
Today, the property consists of three main buildings— the main house, the men’s quarters, and the detached house—each with its own gate, forming a 99-room Hanok. The main house operates as a temple called Jinheung Seonwon, while I run Deokon Tea House in the detached house. The men’s quarters bear a signboard reading “Namnyeongjae,” a title bestowed upon the husband of a Joseon princess. Namnyeongwi Yun Eui-seon (1823-1887) was the husband of Princess Deokon. The inscription on the beam of the men’s quarters states it was built in 1865 (the Year of the Ox), confirming it is 160 years old.
Princess Deokon was the last princess of the Joseon Dynasty. Often confused with Princess Deokhye, who was born to King Gojong and Lady Yang, Princess Deokon was born 90 years earlier to King Sunjo and Queen Sunwon. As the youngest daughter of King Sunjo and granddaughter of King Jeongjo, she was deeply cherished by the royal family. Her scholarly talents and exceptional calligraphy skills have left a lasting legacy, to the point where her writings are preserved at the National Hangeul Museum in the “Deokon Princess Room.” Beyond her calligraphy, Princess Deokon left behind a wealth of artifacts, including wedding garments, traditional hairpins, personal seals, and other treasures—more than any other Korean princess.
At the age of 16, Princess Deokon married Yun Eui-seon but sadly passed away at just 23. She originally lived in Jeodong Palace near Gyeongbokgung, and Jangwi-dong was where her shrine was located. Her husband, in her memory, named his residence Namnyeongjae. Yun Yong-gu, an adopted son of Yun Eui-seon, later became the last Minister of Personnel under King Gojong. When the Eulsa Treaty was signed, he resigned from all his positions and lived in seclusion here, secretly aiding the independence movement under the name “Jangwisanin.”
A Life Connected by Tea, Traditional Houses, and Tea Bowls
I aimed to live a life of quiet anonymity, but let me humbly introduce myself. I was the first Korean professor at Peking University in China, and after returning to Korea, I taught at Ewha Womans University before settling into my role as a tea expert at Deokon Tea House, where I continue to pass down Korea’s tea culture.
When I was in China, many people referred to Korean tea as barley tea. However, countries with a developed tea culture are cultural powerhouses. In Korea, during the Goryeo Dynasty, tea rooms were common in noble households, and some say that Japan’s invasion during the Imjin War was due to their jealousy of Korea’s tea culture, calling it the “War of Ceramics.” Today, Koreans’ love of coffee might stem from a deep-rooted DNA that was used to drinking tea on a daily basis.
I first learned tea ceremony in high school in Insa-dong, so my connection to tea runs deep. Although I majored in Chinese literature, tea was always a passion. After retiring from teaching, that passion became my second career. I named myself “Itta,” which means “to connect,” with the goal of passing on Korean tea culture to future generations. I handpick and roast tea leaves to create my own blend, and I also teach tea classes and meditation.
Where Peonies Bloom and Tea Fragrance Deepens
In the spring, magnolias, cherry blossoms, quince flowers, clematis, peonies, and tree peonies bloom one after another. The centuries-old flower trees, especially the rare single-petaled peonies, create a magnificent spectacle. The scent of flowers wafts into the tea house, mixing with the fresh dew, the breeze, the aroma of wood on rainy days, and the smell of the earth, while the fragrance of tea gently deepens within.
Tea is about joy and humor. Just seeing tea makes me smile. When I encounter good tea, my heart races, and a smile automatically spreads across my face. As humans, we tend to accumulate and cling to things, but a sip of clear tea shakes up the old dust, lightening the load and allowing us to live life more freely, like a pleasant outing. It’s as if we are lifted from the human realm to a more serene, transcendent state.
When you enter the gates of Deokon Tea House, I want you to experience the tea culture of Korea, from the Goryeo to Joseon Dynasties. Each room in the tea house is named after a historical figure, from Deokon to Bu Ma, Choui, Dasan, and Chusa. In the atmosphere of a traditional Hanok, you can sense the deep connection between these figures and tea, enjoying a peaceful moment with a cup in hand.
Kim On, the owner of Deokon Tea House, is a tea expert dedicated to preserving and spreading Korean traditional tea culture. Through Deokon Tea House, she shares the deep history and fragrance of tea with many, while also offering hand-blended tea and meditation programs.
Contact Information
Phone: +82-10-5435-2008
